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Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Jellyfish Air Plants

Jellyfish Air Plant by Etsy seller PetitBeast

While not a terrarium, these air plant and urchin arrangements are uber cute.  Available from Etsy seller PetitBeast.

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Solar LED Lantern Terrarium


A while ago I shared Steve's clever lit-from-below solar terrarium craft.   Here is a link to the East Coast Creative Blog DIY instructions for a solar "lantern" terrarium that would make a cute set of decorations for an outdoor evening party.  The crafters use budget supplies and each terrarium ends up less than $15.

See the DIY guide at InfarrantlyCreative.net.

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Terrarium Window Display in San Francisco

Clover is one of the fast growing plants included in
the SFAC Air & Space Museum installation.

The San Francisco Arts Commission gallery space front window is currently displaying a terrarium-like art installation/performance piece - in which the plants are the performers.  Oakland-based artist Randy Colosky devised the installation, titled Air & Space Museum:

"Colosky’s newly commissioned work consists of an involved synthetic growing station that will provide a proper environment for rearing plants ranging from fast-growing groundcover like clover to large sunflowers. Part of the nature of the project is creating the infrastructure necessary to grow plants in a place they wouldn't ordinarily grow, and having the lights, ventilation, dehumidifiers, and water systems all in balance to make this happen without any effects on the structure they are being grown in."

The installation went public on August 10th at SFAC Gallery Window Installation Site, 155 Grove St. and will remain until October 7th.  The artist will take stop-motion type photos of the plants throughout the installation, to result in a (cool sounding) video.  

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Round Acrylic Lids for Terrariums

Kitty-view aquarium

Oh, the myriad applications of acrylic!  How can it help your terrarium?  Last week during "Operation Diagnose" we discussed the idea of keeping a lid on open terrariums for about 80% of the time to retain moisture.

Plastic Circles by TAP Plastics

Reader Amanda drew my attention to a TAP Plastics product - laser cut acrylic circles, which would be an unobtrusive way to add a lid to nearly any sized open terrarium.  The circles range from 2"- 24" diameter and $.75 - $35 in price.

If you have some time to kill, I encourage you to also explore the TAP Projects page to see the creative projects people have completed with TAP products and services.  There are some interesting aquarium projects that might have terrarium-type applications, like the above image of the kitty view-dome aquarium.

66" long acrylic tank aquarium

Monday, August 20, 2012

Moss Monday: Pincushion Moss




Pincushion Moss at Mountain Moss

"Leucobryum – Called Pincushion Moss, these mounds are deep to light green depending upon its moisture content. It grows on a variety of substrates including rich, acidic soils to barren, sandy locations. It gets tiny golden brown sporophytes during all seasons."

Saturday, August 18, 2012

Operation Diagnose: Proper Temperatures for Your Terrarium

Condensation "fog" in terrarium soil.



Operation Diagnose:  I'm wrapping up the "Operation Diagnose" week with a combination of two questions I received this week that aim at the same topic: temperatures for terrariums.

Here are the questions from Nesting Ranch:

Question:  We could really use your advice as we're having just a dickens of a time with our terrariums.  The latest theories are:
a) our house doesn't get much light as the southern exposure faces dense woods and the windows are east and west facing... so we don't put them against the window or they could fry in the direct light, but elsewhere in the house isn't enough?
b) we like our AC temp set cooler than moss or ferns care for (75-77)?

And the question from reader Ian: I planted a terrarium. As soon as I added the soil moisture seemed to be between the dirt and the glass. It doesn’t look like condensation. It looks like fog.

TL:DR Answer: Terrariums need to be out of direct sunlight so they don't overheat and fry, but other than that they should be fine in regular indoor temperatures.    

For those of you that have some more time: read on...

Nesting Ranch, your indoor house temps are fine.  The beauty of terrariums is that they thrive in the temperatures that us humans prefer to keep in our homes.  The main temperature concern for terrariums is overheating.  What are symptoms of an overheated terrarium?  

An overheated, open-top terrarium could get dried out quickly - with bone dry soil and dried out plants.  An overheated, lidded terrarium would have wilted plants, excessive condensation on the glass, and the excessive appearance of steam or fog between the soil and the glass.



Please note the emphasis on "excessive."  The fog-appearance of water condensation around the soil and the glass is pretty normal if it looks like the terrarium pictured at the top of the post.

If you notice fog, I would caution you to track what times of day and how frequently you see the fog.  It is common for a terrarium to steam up when it is in direct sun (and it shouldn't be in direct sun all day - maybe 45 mins at most).  If you see the fog around the clock- your terrarium may be getting overheated due to being too close to a window or other heat source.  Overheating, in the long run, contributes to disease and plant rot.

With that said, terrariums will need sufficient indirect light.  They need to be kept in the general vicinity of a window but not right next to it and not anywhere that direct sunbeams are hitting them for too long of periods.

Friday, August 17, 2012

Operation Diagnose: Ferns in Terrariums


Unhappy Fern by Nesting Ranch


Operation Diagnose:  This week I'll explore a variety of ailments that commonly afflict terrariums.  A reader contacted me a with a bevy of floundering terraria (with accompanying photos).  This affords a great opportunity for me to attempt to diagnose the problems and make suggestions - but I also encourage you to chime in and share suggestions or anecdotes in the comments!

Here is a brief summary of the questions from Nesting Ranch:

Question:  We could really use your advice as we're having just a dickens of a time with our terrariums. Some are open, others closed, some with ferns, some are just moss, some "wild" from the yard and some revived... none are doing quite well. Ferns are loosing leaves or turning black. Mosses are browning or yellowing. Just can't seem to pin-point why. 

Answer: Today I'd like to discuss the success and demise of ferns in terrariums.  

TL:DR Answer: Ferns are tricky business.  Unfortunately, it is trial and error for using a specific fern variety in a certain terrarium vessel. 

For those of you that have some more time: read on...

Nesting Ranch, your unhappy fern photos are a sad casualty of terrarium-keeping.  Many people assume ferns love shade and lots of water but they actually span a wide variety of climates and conditions.  Some ferns just can't handle terrarium conditions.  Some ferns are better suited for certain sized or shaped terrarium vessels.  Almost all of my "settled" terrariums containing ferns were replanted several times.  I would try one type of fern, it would die, and I would start again from scratch.

I would encourage you to experiment with different varieties of ferns.  I've had great luck with the hardy and common sword fern but it gets tall and needs a tall, narrow terrarium.  

If you obtain a special or hard-to-obtain (aka purchased) fern you may want to divide it into smaller, self-sufficient plants to see if it takes to terrarium life and maximize the opportunities to try it out in different vessels.  You can also keep the divided ferns in a wardian case or other holding zone to observe whether the plant thrives or shrivels in a terrarium environment.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Operation Diagnose: Proper Moss Placement



Unhappy Moss by Nesting Ranch

Operation Diagnose:  This week I'll explore a variety of ailments that commonly afflict terrariums.  A reader contacted me a with a bevy of floundering terraria (with accompanying photos).  This affords a great opportunity for me to attempt to diagnose the problems and make suggestions - but I also encourage you to chime in and share suggestions or anecdotes in the comments!

Here is a brief summary of the questions from Nesting Ranch:

Question:  We could really use your advice as we're having just a dickens of a time with our terrariums. Some are open, others closed, some with ferns, some are just moss, some "wild" from the yard and some revived... none are doing quite well. Ferns are loosing leaves or turning black. Mosses are browning or yellowing. Just can't seem to pin-point why. 

Answer: Today I'd like to discuss planting moss in terrariums.  

TL:DR Answer: I recommend rinsing moss with water, tearing it into smaller chunks, and planting it in the soil.

For those of you that have some more time: read on...

Nesting Ranch, it looks like you placed large swatches of moss directly on top of the soil in some of your terrariums rather than splitting it into smaller chunks.  Yes, I know some people say that works.  Yes, I know some terrariums appear to have moss planted that way.  But in my experience, it takes some prep work to give moss a fighting chance in your terrarium.

1. Wash your moss.  The gist of it is - rinse your moss out with some water and remove any trash or over sized pebbles etc.  By rinsing the moss you are "waking it up" a bit and getting the root parts more exposed.  Read more about washing moss here.  You may also consider putting the moss into a holding zone to observe its overall health prior to planting it in your terrarium.  Is it going to go brown in 48 hrs? Are gnats going to appear?

2. Tear the moss into smaller bits.  This advice is based on personal discovery based on trial and error.  I never had luck plopping a chunk of moss onto soil in a terrarium.  I find smaller pieces nestled into the soil (i.e. "punched" into the soil with a chopstick) tend to flourish more frequently in the long run.

And of course, moss needs humidity.  If you are using an open top terrarium, put a lid on it!

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Operation Diagnose: The Best Soil for a Terrarium


Soil Mix by Nesting Ranch


Operation Diagnose:  This week I'll explore a variety of ailments that commonly afflict terrariums.  A reader contacted me a with a bevy of floundering terraria (with accompanying photos).  This affords a great opportunity for me to attempt to diagnose the problems and make suggestions - but I also encourage you to chime in and share suggestions or anecdotes in the comments!

Here is a brief summary of the questions from Nesting Ranch:

Question:  We could really use your advice as we're having just a dickens of a time with our terrariums. Some are open, others closed, some with ferns, some are just moss, some "wild" from the yard and some revived... none are doing quite well. Ferns are loosing leaves or turning black. Mosses are browning or yellowing. Just can't seem to pin-point why. 

Answer: Today I'd like to discuss soil mixes for terrariums.  

TL:DR Answer: I recommend a 50/50 potting soil and sand mix for terrariums.

For those of you that have some more time: read on...

If you are using a larger terrarium vessel like an aquarium, you may want to increase the ratio of soil you mix into your substrate.  This will ensure your larger plants get more nutrients as time goes on.

Nesting Ranch, it appears from your photos that you used a potting soil mixed with peat?  I use soil mixed with sand to ensure that I can water frequently and have it drain through the soil quickly.  As the environment is so small and enclosed, I do what I can to make sure roots aren't standing in overly dry soil or damp soil.  Here is my brief spiel on soil from my how to, Adding Soil Layers:
"Mix one part potting mix with one part sand to ensure proper drainage. Add distilled water to make damp but it is easier to transfer to terrarium when it is dry. Remember - you can always add more water to your final terrarium but it is difficult to remove!  You should have enough soil to fill about 1/4 to 1/3 of your terrarium container. I would recommend using about 1/2 of the portion you have set aside for your terrarium and then adding the rest after you have planted your largest terrarium plants. Add the soil by scooping spoonfuls into your paper cone and tamping down with a skewer.   Once you have layered your dirt into the terrarium you'll want to mist down the soil.  Soil will need to remain damp throughout the life of your terrarium to support your plant growth."

According to Wikipedia, "The most important property of peat is retaining moisture in soil when it is dry and yet preventing the excess of water from killing roots when it is wet."  That doesn't sound inherently bad for a terrarium, but the part about retaining moisture in the soil makes me hesitant of its application to terrarium life.  Yes, plants like moss and ferns need a lot of moisture.  However,  a healthy terrarium has an interior water cycle; water moves through the soil, evaporates into condensation on the sides of the vessel, which again spill down into the soil in a cycle.  

Has anyone had good luck using peat or sphagnum soil mix in terrariums?

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Operation Diagnose: To Lid or Not to Lid

Terrariums by Nesting Ranch

Operation Diagnose:  This week I'll explore a variety of ailments that commonly afflict terrariums.  A reader contacted me a with a bevy of floundering terraria (with accompanying photos).  This affords a great opportunity for me to attempt to diagnose the problems and make suggestions - but I also encourage you to chime in and share suggestions or anecdotes in the comments!

Here is a brief summary of the questions from Nesting Ranch:

Question:  We could really use your advice as we're having just a dickens of a time with our terrariums. Some are open, others closed, some with ferns, some are just moss, some "wild" from the yard and some revived... none are doing quite well. Ferns are loosing leaves or turning black. Mosses are browning or yellowing. Just can't seem to pin-point why. 


Answer: I'd like to start off the week discussing the merits and issues associated with putting lids on terrariums.  

TL:DR Answer: lid your terrariums for 75-85% of the time.    

For those of you that have some more time: read on...

Nesting Ranch, I see that some of your terrariums are lidded and some were not.  Many terrarium vessels come with lids (candy jars, apothecary jars) but most do not.  I would encourage anyone with an open top terrarium to find a way to partially or fully cover the terrarium 75-85% the time.  The larger the ratio of vessel opening to vessel volume, the more necessary lidding the terrarium will be.  The lid helps maintain the humidity levels in the terrarium - which is necessary for most terrarium plants (mosses and ferns).  A fishbowl-type vessel is losing most of its humidity right through the opening in the vessel.  A wine bottle terrarium maintains humidity levels due to its small opening.

Ideas for lids: plexiglass, acrylic plastic sheets, small dishes or plates, tin foil, lids from other vessels.

With that said, you must uncover the terrarium for short periods of time - perhaps one day a week.  Outdoor ferns and mosses benefit from air circulation in addition to humidity.  You must allow this same air circulation for your terrarium plants occasionally.  This prevents plant rot and fungus growth as well.  

But every terrarium is its own ecosystem.  It takes some experience with "settled" terrariums to learn to watch the moisture accumulation on the glass as a gauge for how frequently to cover/uncover the lids.  If you see water droplets on more than 50% of the interior surface you should unlid for a day.  If the soil layer in the terrarium appears light and color and completely dry you need to consider lidding the terrarium more frequently.

Read more about lidding terrariums here.

Friday, August 10, 2012

Playmobil Future Planet Terrarium

"Future Planet" E-Rangers Headquarters by Playmobil

Although Lego will always have a near and dear place in my heart for providing my first high school job, Playmobil was the toy of choice around my house.  I preferred the zoo and ranch themed sets for their intricate animals.  My sister also had an epic Victorian dollhouse, complete with tiny dining ware set and a florist's cart, which was the envy of the neighborhood.  I recently began receiving the catalogs in the mail again and - the level of detail on the new sets is spectacular.  I am continually blown away by the variety of plant accessories available in the different locales, particularly the exotic jungle flora in the pirate set (copied below).  

The new "Future Planet" series imagines a frontier life on an inhospitable planet, complete with a terrarium-type apparatus to generate oxygen for the research team. From the catalog:

"The year is 2113, and we, E-Rangers, landed on an unknown planet a short time ago.  We produce oxygen with the help of solar planets and special plants.  This is vital for us to live."

Pirate Adventure Island, by Playmobil

I identify bamboo, palms and a Heliconia in the top right of the Pirate island set.  

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

"Goofproof" Terrarium Tool



Daily Savings from AllYou shares a short and sweet tutorial on putting together a mason jar terrarium.  The author recommends a handy trick to make a tamper tool by sticking a cork on the end of a wood skewer; this is a great idea to fabricate a way to "pat down" the soil layers of your terrarium.

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

How to Make a Moss Terrarium by Twig Terrariums


Garden Design Magazine shares a how-to guide for creating a moss terrarium ala the fabulous Twig Terrarium ladies.  The twelfth (and final step) contains a good comment in regards to long-term care for a terrarium: a well-made terrarium will become more self-sufficient over time and will need less care and watering.

Friday, August 3, 2012

Build Your Own Electronic Automatic Watering System



This short video demonstrates a DIY system for setting up automatic irrigation for a house plant.  I'm not convinced the soil-dryness sensor is sensitive enough to tailor for a finicky plant's water needs but this would probably work for a hardier, water loving plant.  The arrangement appears rather simple to set up if you have some electronics know-how.

Here's the full Instructable, via Lifehacker.